Last Updated on August 4, 2022.
- Heat emitters are possibly the best option as a direct heat source.
- The benefits of the ceramic bulbs compared to traditional heat bulbs are that they do not emit light (only heat) therefore they produce more heat per watt than a traditional heat bulb that produces both light and heat.
- Heat lamps emitting light are less than ideal for nocturnal animals, as the light will affect their sleep pattern.
- Heat emitters last a lot longer than traditional heat bulbs.
- Dimmable clamp lamps include a built in rheostat, which can lower the amount of heat produced by higher wattage bulbs when extra heat is not necessary. Please note that different manufacturers have different recommendations for dimmers and it is always best to follow manufacturer instructions.
- The highest watt bulb (150W) has the most use flexibility when using a wire cage even without a base lacking a rheostat. A rheostat is helpful because it can control the amount of heat a bulb can produce.
- The height of the lamp may be raised or lowered to increase or decrease the heat emitted in the cage.
- Wire cages typically require more heat because the heat is not confined as compared to an aquarium with the same dimensions.
- One should use caution when using the heat emitters with plastic tote type cages or any plastic accessory in the cage that the heat could damage.
- The ceramic heat emitters must be used with a lamp base designed for ceramic emitters and rated for the appropriate wattage.
- A traditional metal heat lamp holder is not sufficient as the wiring components are not adequately protected against the amount of heat produced by ceramic bulbs.
- Please be very careful when getting your hedgehog out of its cage. The base shown does NOT have a protective shield. Surface burns will result from touching the hot emitter.
Information From Zoo Med Website
ReptiCare® Ceramic Heat Emitters
- ReptiCare® Ceramic Heat Emitters are the perfect 24 hour heat source for all reptiles.
- These porcelain heating devices screw into a standard porcelain incandescent socket, giving off intense “muscle-penetrating” infrared heat, while emitting no light.
- The flat-faced design is more efficient and longer lasting than conical designs which build up excess heat internally, ultimately carbonizing the element.
- Additional Information:
- Last up to 5 years
- Perfect for high humidity terrariums
- UL/cUL classified when used in conjunction with Zoo Meds Wire Cage Clamp Lamp (LF-10).
FAQ from Zoo Med’s Website:
Q: What fixture should I use with this heat emitter?
A: We recommend using the Wire Cage Clamp Lamp (LF-10).
Q: Can I use a rheostat/thermostat with the Ceramic Heat Emitter?
A: Yes! A Thermostat or rheostat can be used to control the heat output of this heater.
Q: Is the Ceramic Heat Emitter coated with Teflon?
A: No. There is no coating on this heater.
Q: How can I ensure long life of my bulbs?
A: You can check your fixture by unplugging it and looking at the metal tab in the center – where the bulb screws in. This tab can be pulled slightly forward to ensure that it makes a good contact with the bulb.
Zoo Meds most popular Clamp Lamp fixture is available in three sizes: 5 1/2″(14cm), 8 1/2″(22cm), or 10″(25cm) diameter domes. They are made of heavy gauge painted aluminum. All three models have a ceramic socket, and can be used with the Clamp Lamp Safety Cover to protect your bulbs, animals, and home.
Rules for Replacement:
Additional Information provided to Millermeade Farms from Zoo Med Sales Representative Phil Goss via email 6/5/11
To receive Full Warranty on Reptile Bulbs and Heat Emitters you must follow the guidelines below:
- If bulbs are purchased in weather less than 60°F, allow the bulb to acclimate to room temperature for at least one hour before use.
- If the bulb is dropped or dropped while in fixture, the warranty is void.
- For maximum life, it is very important to check your fixture/clamp lamp. To do this, unplug the fixture and remove the bulb from the fixture. There is a brass or silver tab (tongue) in the base of the fixture.
- That tab should be at a 30-35° angle. If it is not, take a flathead screwdriver or butter knife and pull the tab down to a 30-35° angle. Do not pull too far or the tab may break.
- It is very important that the tab comes into contact with the base of the bulb. If the tab is flat against the socket, it will not come into contact with the bulb and will create an electrical arc and your bulb will not last the 1000-1200 hours that it should.
- Check your fixture every time you change the bulb. NOTE: Same tab rules apply for ceramic heat emitters and they should last at least one year.
Wire Cage Clamp Lamp
- This ceramic base Clamp Lamp fixture is ideal for use with all types of incandescent lamps or Ceramic Heat Emitters.
- This Clamp Lamp fixture has a heat-resistant porcelain socket that handles up to 150 watts.
- The wire guard is safer than an aluminum reflector because it prevents unnecessary heat build up and possible hand burns.
- The only Zoo Med Clamp Lamp fixture that is U.L. approved when used in conjunction with Zoo Meds Ceramic Heat Emitter.
Clamp Lamp Safety Cover
- Easily clips onto most clamp lamp domes to provide additional safety.
- These galvanized steel covers will prevent children and pets from touching heat lamps and will help prevent fire in the event that a clamp lamp is knocked onto the ground.
- Available in 3 sizes.
Information from Fluker’s Website
- Heat emitters radiate intense infrared heat, but emit no light. The perfect 24-hour heat source for your tropical or desert reptile.
- Ceramic heat emitters can be used to establish an appropriate environment temperature range for reptiles.
- Designed for use with all Fluker Clamp-Lamps.
- The perfect lamp for reptiles who like to bask. Sockets are rated 75 watts for 5.5”; 150 watts for 8.5”; and 250 watts for 10” incandescent bulbs.
- The ceramic model, with protective guards, is ideal for ceramic heat emitters. Both models feature safety clamps and easily attach to the rim of all terrariums.